Well, yes, by this time I have rolled over 3,000 miles, and I’ll admit my butt hurts. But grumpy as my outlook may be, I did not stop at the medicinal hot springs at Takhini. I am more averse to tourist attractions than I am to a little pain. Besides, it took longer in Whitehorse than I would have preferred.

I follow the Yukon river just a little ways, and see all kinds of signs with amusing verses. Approaching Lake Laberge, I couldn’t stand it any more and stopped to have a beer and find out.

I read this wonderful old poem, it goes very well with beer: 


The Cremation of Sam McGee
by Robert W. D. Service


There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

Now Sam McGee was from Tennessee,
Where the cotton blooms and blows.
Why he left his home in the South to roam
'Round the Pole, God only knows.
He was always cold, but the land of gold
Seemed to hold him like a spell;
Though he'd often say in his homely way
That he'd "sooner live in hell".

On a Christmas Day we were mushing our way
Over the Dawson trail.
Talk of your cold! through the parka's fold
It stabbed like a driven nail.
If our eyes we'd close, then the lashes froze
Till sometimes we couldn't see;
It wasn't much fun, but the only one
To whimper was Sam McGee.

And that very night, as we lay packed tight
In our robes beneath the snow,
And the dogs were fed, and the stars o'erhead
Were dancing heel and toe,
He turned to me, and "Cap," says he,
"I'll cash in this trip, I guess;
And if I do, I'm asking that you
Won't refuse my last request."

Well, he seemed so low that I couldn't say no;
Then he says with a sort of moan:
"It's the cursed cold, and it's got right hold
Till I'm chilled clean through to the bone.
Yet 'tain't being dead -- it's my awful dread
Of the icy grave that pains;
So I want you to swear that, foul or fair,
You'll cremate my last remains."

A pal's last need is a thing to heed,
So I swore I would not fail;
And we started on at the streak of dawn;
But God! he looked ghastly pale.
He crouched on the sleigh, and he raved all day
Of his home in Tennessee;
And before nightfall a corpse was all
That was left of Sam McGee.

There wasn't a breath in that land of death,
And I hurried, horror-driven,
With a corpse half hid that I couldn't get rid,
Because of a promise given;
It was lashed to the sleigh, and it seemed to say:
"You may tax your brawn and brains,
But you promised true, and it's up to you
To cremate those last remains."

Now a promise made is a debt unpaid,
And the trail has its own stern code.
In the days to come, though my lips were dumb,
In my heart how I cursed that load.
In the long, long night, by the lone firelight,
While the huskies, round in a ring,
Howled out their woes to the homeless snows --
O God! how I loathed the thing.

And every day that quiet clay
Seemed to heavy and heavier grow;
And on I went, though the dogs were spent
And the grub was getting low;
The trail was bad, and I felt half mad,
But I swore I would not give in;
And I'd often sing to the hateful thing,
And it hearkened with a grin.

Till I came to the marge of Lake Lebarge,
And a derelict there lay;
It was jammed in the ice, but I saw in a trice
It was called the "Alice May".
And I looked at it, and I thought a bit,
And I looked at my frozen chum;
Then "Here," said I, with a sudden cry,
"Is my cre-ma-tor-eum."

Some planks I tore from the cabin floor,
And I lit the boiler fire;
Some coal I found that was lying around,
And I heaped the fuel higher;
The flames just soared, and the furnace roared --
Such a blaze you seldom see;
And I burrowed a hole in the glowing coal,
And I stuffed in Sam McGee.

Then I made a hike, for I didn't like
To hear him sizzle so;
And the heavens scowled, and the huskies howled,
And the wind began to blow.
It was icy cold, but the hot sweat rolled
Down my cheeks, and I don't know why;
And the greasy smoke in an inky cloak
Went streaking down the sky.

I do not know how long in the snow
I wrestled with grisly fear;
But the stars came out and they danced about
Ere again I ventured near;
I was sick with dread, but I bravely said:
"I'll just take a peep inside.
I guess he's cooked, and it's time I looked"; . . .
Then the door I opened wide.

And there sat Sam, looking cool and calm,
In the heart of the furnace roar;
And he wore a smile you could see a mile,
And he said: "Please close that door.
It's fine in here, but I greatly fear
You'll let in the cold and storm --
Since I left Plumtree, down in Tennessee,
It's the first time I've been warm."

There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.



You don't need me to interpret.  The infectious attitude of great things being done boldly is in the spirit of the country, culture and history of so many things out here, it is a pleasure to hear the echo. 

Up a little further, the countryside starts changing. I leave the side of Lake LaBarge, and climb into a high-country plains amid big rounded mountains covered with forest. 


River U Bend If you look closely you will see the bridge over the river on the right side of the bend.

The air is sharply clear, smelling sweet as can be, and my spirits begin to rise with the elevation. The road switches to follow Fox lake, which is a long, skinny affair compared to the huge LaBarge. I stop and have an excellent break, eating my premium sardines with peanuts and a small decanter of tequila. The site was this ancient roadhouse, log cabin construction but pretty big. My photography talents somehow got confused around here, I opened my camera back for no apparent reason and light-struck quite a few frames…

I pass the Twin Lakes, two pretty little jewels that were well worth another rest stop, the meditation kind, propped up on the side of an outcropping, and I just let the world spin a little. Wow, it was just good for the soul. The road goes right between them, so you can’t miss them when you go.

You get the idea as you pull up these hills that you are getting into serious gold rush country. This guy Carmack was just panning, expecting pennies per pan, when he hit this five dollar pan. Before he finished for the winter he had a ton of gold, and kicked off the last great gold rush around here. Any old drunk will still tell the story of ‘ol George, and his partners Skookum Jim and Tagish Charley. You can look it up. I, of course, just read some signs and took copious, ah, notes, and I’ll attest that the city is still there.

One of the ruined photo images was the often-quoted Five Finger Rapids. Well, I’m here to tell you I could only see four, rapids that is. I kept trying to see five, but to no avail. Where is a ranger when you need one? It is a beautiful section of the world nonetheless. One thing that is coming back, is the landscape involved in the huge fires in 1995. Right around here, a third of a million acres was burned up. You can still see it.

About halfway between Whitehorse and Dawson City is Minto and Pelly. Now Minto is an absolutely charming lake, and the Pelly and Stewart crossings join with it along the Yukon river. I’m pressing on fairly hard, though, and anticipating the "big turnoff" coming up soon. I did stop at the so-called Tintina Trench, though. No, it’s not a bar. It is this huge valley-looking feature in the landscape, and the information marker says it was one of the earliest proofs of plate tectonics.

So there's my three hundred miles on the Klondike Loop. I'm coming up on Dempster Corner, and have to pay attention.

the big turnoff

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© 1997 - 2001 Mike LeDuc
(excepting poem)